Antique and Estate Jewellery Time-Line

Victorian Period (1837-1901)

Early Victorian 1837-1860

Queen Victoria's reign was embodied by the «Romantic period». The young, newly-wed queen was deeply in love with her consort Prince Albert. This amorous theme was expressed through rich colours, with gold as the principal element. Diamonds and coloured stones such as ruby, sapphire, emerald and garnet were used as adornment. Flora and fauna images were often present in the ornaments of the period.

Middle Victorian 1860-1885

Opulent and ornate pieces of jewellery were produced during this period, reflecting the prosperity of the British Empire. Beautiful diamond jewellery parures were made of imposing diamond and natural pearl necklaces and grand diamond chandelier pendant earrings. Recent archaeological discoveries played a very important part in jewellery design, by reintroducing images and themes from ancient civilizations, Egyptian and Etruscan revival being the most famous.
This era was significantly marked by the death of Prince Albert. Queen Victoria entered into a state of mourning which was to last until her own death in 1901. Her wearing of mourning jewellery contributed to the use of bold jet and black onyx beyond those confines.

Late Victorian 1885-1901

This was known as the aesthetic period. Charles Dickens' writings ensured that social injustices could no longer be ignored. Jewellery became less opulent. Bar brooches came into fashion and diamond stud earrings were invented.

Art Nouveau Period (1890-1919)

Art Nouveau was contemporary to both the Victorians and the Edwardians. Its sensual and organic shapes shocked the middle classes. It was both suggestive and ambiguous. Art Nouveau's appeal was more intellectual than materialistic. The materials used were less precious, and the emphasis was more on ornate and sophisticated design. The finest examples of Art Nouveau were made in France. Rene Laique was the greatest French Art Nouveau designer.

Edwardian Period (1901-1910)

The Edwardian period began with the death of Queen Victoria and the Reign of Edward VII. England was a powerful nation, and the ruling classes yearned to show their rank and wealth. Jewellery was used to reflect or even enhance ones social position. The majestic tiara became very popular with the new elite.
Jewellery design complemented a new style of dressing; heralding softer lines and delicate materials. The use of platinum was introduced, producing lace-like filigree work. The garland was a recurrent theme in platinum and diamond pendants, earrings and brooches.
Novel black pearls from Tahiti were used, together with diamonds , in pendant earrings, necklaces, tie pins and brooches.

Art-Deco Period (1910-1939)

The Exposition of Decorative Arts and Modern Manufacturers in 1925 gave the movement its name.
Geometry in an infinite combination of shapes and sizes marks the Art Deco style. Platinum was the dominant metal; accompanied by diamonds, aquamarines, onyx, sapphire, emerald, rubies and jade, to make beautifully striking diamond bracelets, plaque brooches and rings.
Cubism, Jazz, lavish parties, dandyism and the emancipation of women are the keywords to define this era.
A new style of femininity called for a new style of jewellery, relinquishing the romantic and embracing the more modern and geometric. Short and sharp hairstyles were perfect backdrops for slender and stylized platinum and diamond earrings. Plunged necklines framed long pearl necklace flanked by platinum and diamond double clips.

Retro Jewellery (1940-1950)

Defying the scarcity and chaos of WWII, this period expressed a hunger for opulence amidst the destruction.
The geometrical theme developed into a sculptural one. Set in gold, with scrolls and curves, each piece expressing a prominent statement.
The materials used initially were adapted to the economic constraint of the times. However, rubies, emeralds, sapphires and aquamarines were soon the favourite gemstones of the growing upper-middle class with their new found affluence. Yellow or rose gold cocktail rings set with rubies, sapphire and aquamarine, heavy yellow and rose gold bracelets and necklaces, and geometric and flower brooches were key pieces that define the 1940's.
Towards the end of the period, more naturalistic motifs began to surface.

The 1950's

Both the European and American economies embark upon an extremely prosperous era. This is the time of the “Dolce Vita”; punctuated by lavish parties and a yearning to display affluence and abundance.
Equal use of white and yellow metal was accompanied by the use of pearls and precious stones in abundance. Stylised naturalistic motifs, floral designs, waterfall pendant earrings and tapered necklaces are representative of this productive period.